MK58 Sport Port 44

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Sat Sep 28, 2019 10:20 pm

OK. Last step prior to piston assemblies meeting those incredible bores - add rings. All good? Not. I noticed ring #2 on the top piston feels a bit odd. Remove the rings, look really close at the piston and find the locator pin in the #2 land has worked it's way out almost to the surface. This piston is now officially junk. Wish I had noticed that prior to reconditioning. There was no other damage or marks of any kind on the skirt. This is a first although I did have a 44 piston in the shop last year that had a sunk pin. Fortunately I have other candidates in inventory. Selected one this morning and we are back in business!

Chuck
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Michael » Sat Sep 28, 2019 11:06 pm

impressive
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby AU52N » Sat Sep 28, 2019 11:38 pm

There is a lot of work invested in those pistons.  See that number of pistons got me wondering how many we have so I went to our inventory and I really surprised myself.  We have over 115 NOS pistons still in the boxes and nearly the same in used pistons.  Only 6 are Fire Slot and the rest are flat top and range from the KG4, Mark 30 to 44XS-25XS in standard, +0.015 and +0.030. Also have a few Yamato 102 pistons NOS.  It is amazing what all of these years of collecting can accumulate seeing that we have used or sold nearly the same amount as we now have in stock.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Sun Sep 29, 2019 1:05 am

Thanks sir. The next drawer down has a few of the unrestored versions. About 40% of the candidates from donor powerheads head directly to the recycle bin due to scoring. The vast majority of my builds are 44 & 40 powerheads 1955-1963 (small wrist pin rods & pistons). I have done several MK30H builds, but do not maintain much of a parts inventory.


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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby zul8tr » Sun Sep 29, 2019 10:09 am

ctpdsr wrote:OK. Last step prior to piston assemblies meeting those incredible bores - add rings. All good? Not. I noticed ring #2 on the top piston feels a bit odd. Remove the rings, look really close at the piston and find the locator pin in the #2 land has worked it's way out almost to the surface. This piston is now officially junk. Wish I had noticed that prior to reconditioning. The was no other damage or marks of any kind on the skirt. This is a first although I did have a 44 piston in the shop last year that had a sunk pin. Fortunately I have other candidates in inventory. Selected one this morning and we are back in business!

Chuck
DE12AAF2-3027-47C6-A26C-1283194F9E15.jpeg
7B3ABCC3-2E31-4568-86AA-7AF81FA48ECB.jpeg


Chuck
Nice supply of pistons. What is the diff with the flat top pistons in the low 200's grams range  vs the flat top  pistons in the mid 200 grams range, all are 3 ring :?:  Are all small pin :?:
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Sun Sep 29, 2019 8:36 pm

Lighter weight versions near the back of the drawer are 40 cid (MK55, Merc300, etc...). The larger guys in front are 44 pistons (MK58, Merc400, etc...). All small wrist pin. Note the baggie in the lower drawer has a set of 4 large pin rods & pistons from a 1970's Merc500.

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby zul8tr » Sun Sep 29, 2019 8:44 pm

ctpdsr wrote:Lighter weight versions near the back of the drawer are 40 cid (MK55, Merc300, etc...). The larger guys in front are 44 pistons (MK58, Merc400, etc...). All small wrist pin. Note the baggie in the lower drawer has a set of 4 large pin rods & pistons from a 1970's Merc500.

Chuck

 
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Do you know why did Merc go to large pin with added weight  :?:
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Sun Sep 29, 2019 9:09 pm

I honestly don't know. They did a lot of things to make the motors run quiet with less vibration back then. Crankshafts had a thick top throw as well. Not a good choice for a race motor. I'll ask the smart tall guy...

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Sep 30, 2019 1:54 am

Answer received:

"Complete piston redesign, large pin, OFFSET PIN, different height to CL, and shorter rod. They were looking for quieter running and wanted to minimize things like piston slap at idle. Yes, you can hear it. Listen to that sewing machine sound of an early Mk55 at idle."



Honed Center Main bearing installed on the double-race crank. 2X14 = 28 bearings per race. Count twice!


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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby zul8tr » Mon Sep 30, 2019 4:50 pm

ctpdsr wrote:Answer received:

"Complete piston redesign, large pin, OFFSET PIN, different height to CL, and shorter rod. They were looking for quieter running and wanted to minimize things like piston slap at idle. Yes, you can hear it. Listen to that sewing machine sound of an early Mk55 at idle."



Honed Center Main bearing installed on the double-race crank. 2X14 = 28 bearings per race. Count twice!


Chuck
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Chuck
Please excuse slightly hi-jacking your build thread.

Very interesting on the redesign pistons and rods.

When did they start off-set large pins  :?:
When did they start off-set small pins :?:  

One reference. I have a set of std  22 ci pistons  from my Merc 200 that are small pin with off-set 1/8" toward the  intake, off-set just like in my 1973 Merc 25ss large pin pistons.  Can't recall the year of my Merc 200 (it had point ignition). Per OldMercs.com Merc started the 22 ci Merc 200 series in 1960.  

ECK production can be [violin.gif]

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Sep 30, 2019 9:25 pm

The 22 & 44 powerheads continued to use the small pin rods & pistons into the mid-1960's "floating cowl" motors. Looking at part #s it looks like the change occurred in 1968. The blocks also changed with different combustion chambers & offset spark plugs. Initial guess was 1970. Either way, by the time the 25SS was offered, I think they all would have come with the large pin stuff. I rarely see anything in this shop later than 1964 and would welcome additional input.


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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Locomotion » Mon Sep 30, 2019 9:45 pm

The fact they went to shorter rods is surprising as the shorter rod will transmit more load to the skirt of the piston  [violin.gif]
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Tom Brockmeyer » Mon Sep 30, 2019 9:48 pm

ctpdsr wrote:The blocks also changed with different combustion chambers & offset spark plugs.  -Chuck


I think offset plugs were 1965...
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Sep 30, 2019 10:15 pm

My field of play is 1955-1963. Although a MK50 just made it's way into the shop....

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Sep 30, 2019 10:28 pm

The MK58 Sport Port block met it's replacement pistons and a very pretty crankshaft last night. Early large taper crank that most likely came from a MK58 or MK58A powerhead. Tip - a cleaned up flex-plate flywheel hub makes a nice little tool to rotate the crankshaft.

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Tue Oct 01, 2019 10:46 pm

Final torque settings done. Reed Cages & CMB housing installed. End caps shimmed for proper endplay. Note the caps were temporarily bolted in place during the torque process. Given the length of my wrench and crowfoot extension, I torque in 3 stages up to 16 ft lbs vs. the standard 18. Specific formula for that came in the box with my Snap-on wrench. Drop of red Loctite on the rod nuts. Blue on the reed cage and center main screws. I torque the center mains using a Phillips screwdriver bit socket. Reed cages I prefer to do by hand feel. Another tip: since the crankshaft assembly will tend to head North during operation, try to balance the shim thickness in general, but error on the thicker side for the bottom cap.

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby zul8tr » Wed Oct 02, 2019 9:24 pm

ctpdsr wrote:.............................. Another tip: since the crankshaft assembly will tend to head North during operation, try to balance the shim thickness in general, but error on the thicker side for the bottom cap.

Chuck
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Chuck

Feeler is usually a go no go setting. Do you final check the crank end play, with both end caps torqued on with a dry torqued fit of the crank case cover, using a dial indicator at the top of the crank shaft :?:  I do that on the 2 cylinder jobs but after number of set ups the crank end play closes about 1.5 thousandths when all parts torqued so I feeler gage that much more as a start.

Since these engines allow crank shims at top and bottom (wish the 2 cylinder 22 ci engines like Merc 200 ad 255ss did that   :-( ) and under load the crank does go up it seems the crank shims would be set to more center the crank under load crank up  :?:  You note to err on thicker shims for the bottom cap which is in the direction of what I suggest. I know the usual spec on end play is 8 - 12 thou but that allows discretion on the part of the builder and what works the best for the engine to be free rolling.  I have seen 25ss engines I have worked on with end play north of 0.020" and counter weights hitting  the reed stops and chipped reeds icon_crazy.gif

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Wed Oct 02, 2019 11:50 pm

Pete,

Agreed. After so many of these builds, I find that measuring +.002" vs. the desired final setting prior to bolt down gets me done. Don't disect my last comment to finely. I want the crank near center, but using the OEM shims (carefully dressed) will typically present a very slight imbalance. I like to run these Sport powerheads loose, NOT .020" loose however. A very good point you bring is the reed cage stops can be set too hi OR to low. Another reaseon I spend an inordinate amount of time setting up those guys(see Aug. 2 post).

Crankcase cover is now in place. I chose a set of restored circa 1955-56 fastners for this build and like the look. Will use new 316 Stainless for the water jacket, exhaust & port covers. Still time for a couple boat rides this season if the rain ever stops!


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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Yellowjacket » Wed Oct 02, 2019 11:55 pm

Curious as to what force is present to make the crank move upward when the engine is running?  Given the weight of the crank and the small area at the bearings I'm finding it hard to think that the crank would move upward. Now it may move all over the place due to unbalance forces, and secondary crank forces, but I don't know what force is present to push the crank upwards.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby zul8tr » Thu Oct 03, 2019 1:58 pm

Yellowjacket wrote:Curious as to what force is present to make the crank move upward when the engine is running?  Given the weight of the crank and the small area at the bearings I'm finding it hard to think that the crank would move upward. Now it may move all over the place due to unbalance forces, and secondary crank forces, but I don't know what force is present to push the crank upwards.


Under engine load the torque on the drive pinion gear meshing into the prop shaft gear and the load on the prop pushing forward causes the pinion gear to ride up and thus the drive shaft goes up. That is why when setting or checking gear lash you push in on prop shaft and pull up on drive shaft.  All the Merc Quicki gear cases I have played with there is up down slack on the drive shaft, but not much and different for each gear case depending on shimming to set gear lash and tooth contact  Per Ron Thomas the Foot Doctor that I had a discussion with on this he said there is no OEM spec on the drive shaft up down, each case is unique and the correct amount is what gives the correct gear lash range and tooth contact pattern.

Of course the crank gets longer when warmed up and end play from cold setting of 8 - 12 thou reduces so the up movement is reduced but there when warmed up .
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Yellowjacket » Fri Oct 04, 2019 2:28 am

zul8tr wrote:
Yellowjacket wrote:Curious as to what force is present to make the crank move upward when the engine is running?  Given the weight of the crank and the small area at the bearings I'm finding it hard to think that the crank would move upward. Now it may move all over the place due to unbalance forces, and secondary crank forces, but I don't know what force is present to push the crank upwards.


Under engine load the torque on the drive pinion gear meshing into the prop shaft gear and the load on the prop pushing forward causes the pinion gear to ride up and thus the drive shaft goes up. That is why when setting or checking gear lash you push in on prop shaft and pull up on drive shaft.  All the Merc Quicki gear cases I have played with there is up down slack on the drive shaft, but not much and different for each gear case depending on shimming to set gear lash and tooth contact  Per Ron Thomas the Foot Doctor that I had a discussion with on this he said there is no OEM spec on the drive shaft up down, each case is unique and the correct amount is what gives the correct gear lash range and tooth contact pattern.

Of course the crank gets longer when warmed up and end play from cold setting of 8 - 12 thou reduces so the up movement is reduced but there when warmed up .


The driveshaft doesn't push up on the crankshaft.  The thrust of the pinion gear is taken out by the pilot bearing.  This is why you always need to put a clamping load on the pilot housing to properly set the gear lash.   The gear forces are indeed upward, but the pilot bearing shim sets the gear clearance.  The driveshaft does not bottom out in the crankshaft spline so there isn't any upward force coming from the driveshaft.  You can easily see this by looking at the wear marks on the shaft spline and then putting that same spline into the crankshaft and you'll see it goes further than the wear marks.  If what you're saying was true you wouldn't be shimming the pilot bearing to set the clearance, you'd be setting the clearance by shimming the crank in the block.   Moreover, the tower is aluminum and the driveshaft is steel, The tower is 12 inches and the housing temperature is the same as the driveshaft (they're both wet) and probably about 180 degrees F.  Consequently there is more thermal growth in the housing than the shaft.  So even if the driveshaft were bottomed out in crankshaft when cold, when it all heats up the driveshaft wouldn't be bottomed out when running.  The thermal growth differential is about .007 inches.  That is, the case grows .007 more than the driveshaft.  The spline allows the driveshaft to move up and down, but it cannot transmit vertical force unless it's bottomed out, and that simply doesn't happen.  

As with the tower, the bock is aluminum and it has roughly twice the coefficient of thermal expansion of the crankshaft.  If the block is at 170 degrees F and the crank is at 300 F the clearance closes up about .005 inches (the crank grows .020, and the case grows .015).  I'm sure they don't want the crank to ever get "tight" since that would result in very high bearing loads and likely bearing failure in pretty short order.  For that reason an end play of 8 to 12 thou makes sense.  So, yes the crank likely moves up to tighten the clearance, but it's due mostly to thermal growth of the crank because it's hotter than the block.  Since the crank is bottomed in the lower bearing, it grows upward.  I didn't realize that the crank growth was greater than the block when I asked the question, I was thinking that it was similar since the coefficient of expansion on the block is so much bigger than the steel crank, but if the crank is hotter than the block it's possible.  Obviously if the crank gets hotter than 300 or 400 F you're going to see burnt oil and fuel on the crank, so that's probably not what's happening, but due it can run hotter than the block that his cool water in it.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Fri Oct 04, 2019 4:42 pm

On a related theme, most folks do not appreciate the fact that a significant cooling impact results from the fuel/oil mixture flowing into the crankcase. Running rich also means running cool. When reading piston tops, a clean piston translates rich not lean. The piston is running cooler and not "baking". One trick really smart guys figured out is that these 4-cylinder Mercs are essentially 2 x 2-cylinder Mercs. Each carb feeds 2 cylinders. If the carb is not tuned correctly, the cylinders will perform unevenly and maximum power can't be achieved.

Getting the covers buttoned up on this killer 44 Sport. I like to work with a level flat surface. Gaskets receive a light coating of 303 Marine and a tiny bit of clear seal on the spark plug mating surfaces of the rear water jacket.

Welcomed a special JOMS friend from GA into the shop yesterday. He left with a 44 Sport and MK55S on pallets seat-belted into the back seat of his pickup! Have a great weekend!!


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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Oct 07, 2019 11:33 pm

The 44 Sport has made it's way to the stand. Always a cool milestone. Clear oiler line is the good stuff - Motion Pro.

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Dave Mckinney » Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:12 pm

Hi Chuck,  can you give us some break in procedures that you do on your motors including preferred oil and mix, and can some of the break in be done in test tank?  thanks Dave.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Tue Oct 08, 2019 4:32 pm

Hi Dave,

The attached comes unedited from the Smart Tall Guy and applies generally to my performance builds (note timing for 44 cid motors is set to .235"). Keep in mind most of the 40 & 44 powerheads leaving my shop these days are fixed high-speed jet with OEM sizes. Bullet proof. The low speed needles are also pre-set with Loctite. Richer vs. a stock service motor, but where they need to be for hi rpm applications. The key is premium quality oil and lots of it. That is not a typo. Jerry ran 8:1 in his E-Mod motors in competition. I run that level for break-in and then 12:1 for "Sport" applications. We ran the Chevron oil (see attached file) in the 1980's and it may still be available. I have had good results with Amsoil products and you can read about those online. I run the HP in my oil injected 2.4 V-6 and 2001 40 hp Merc fishing motor and the Dominator in 55H & 44 Sport applications. Used to mix 1 part Merc Rejuvenate to 4 parts oil when it was still available... I do not typically use a test tank, but if the rpm's are kept low and variable, I don't see any harm.


Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Tom Brockmeyer » Wed Oct 09, 2019 4:57 pm

ctpdsr wrote:Welcomed a special JOMS friend from GA into the shop yesterday. He left with a 44 Sport and MK55S on pallets seat-belted into the back seat of his pickup! -Chuck


Hey!  I resemble that remark.   Had another great visit to the impeccable workshop in Thiensville.  Great chat as always, and was able to pick up not one, but TWO restored engines for JOMS members here in Georgia as well as contribute lots of parts to Chuck's inventory for his future builds.  I am confident that both Chuck's clients here in Georgia will be able to post pictures of the completed Mercury engines in the near future.  I combined my outboard hobby with college sports weekend and family visit to rack up another 2,850 miles on my truck (327K miles total now) and I"m back safely at home.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Dave Mckinney » Thu Oct 10, 2019 11:34 pm

Thanks Chuck and Tom, 2 great guys we are lucky to have on this great site. [drinkingcheers.gif]
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Tom Brockmeyer » Fri Oct 11, 2019 3:30 pm

Well the Mk58 Sport Port has been delivered to it's owner;  but he was NOT at work.   Mark55E owner will pick his engine up soon.

While I had the engines for two Georgia JOMS members all at my home, I lined them up with my 30H powerhead that Chuck built for me last spring.

Funny story: ctpdsr makes those really nice carrier frames for the powerheads.  Makes them REALLY easy to pick up and carry as well as a stable base that looks good.  The left one is his "standard model", the middle is the "Boat Show Special Edition?", and the one on my 30H on the right is just a crosscut sled someone made for a tablesaw I found in the junk pile.  I only removed the two table guides and traced the cutout pattern and it looks right at home!

Left to right:  Mark58 Sport Port 44ci,  Mark55E,  Mark30H
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Fri Oct 11, 2019 5:05 pm

Those OEM "H" flywheels are getting harder to find! Truth is most stock racers tossed them in favor of cut down early service versions with solid cast dogs(**see example on the MK55 in the middle**). Stronger and lighter.

Speaking of parts getting harder to find, really nice vintage mag drives with good bearings are on that list. Remember the cable TV show "Dirty Jobs"? Cleaning up these things certainly qualify! Note the steel tabs vs. brass. Another feature found on later MK55's 1957-58ish. Racers also sought these out due to added strength.

Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Tom Brockmeyer » Fri Oct 11, 2019 7:47 pm

My thought is to hang on to any of the mags with bad bearings and the steel tabs.  For now, they are un-serviceable, but when we run out of the good mags then someone will likely take on the task of reproducing the steel tab part and building a fixture to press them in again.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Sun Oct 13, 2019 8:39 pm

Mag Drive and Fuel Pump installed. Working on a nice set of KA13-A carbs now. A note with regard to running KA carb bodies with the old school mag drives and 55H style throttle linkage. All the service engines equipped with KA carbs used the modern spring loaded mag drives and linkage actuator mounted to the top carb shaft. The traditional MK55 brass "spoon" used to actuate the butterflies needs be modified by swapping out the longer shaft intended to connect the smaller AJ size carbs. The spoons also get restored as they typically have all manor of dings & groves worn into the surface. Easy job on a bench grinder. If you look closely at the 44 Sport on the left side of Tom's group photo above, you will get the general idea of how we rig the linkage and upgrade the choke system.


Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby RandyLeclair » Mon Oct 14, 2019 12:49 pm

Any idea what kind of HP you get out of a rebuild of this sort?
A whole pile of broken motors, attached to three broken GW Invaders
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Oct 14, 2019 3:32 pm

Randy,

Keep in mind a lot of the stuff you see here is to keep everything happy & healthy vs. hp gains. I have tested a stock 44 vs. the full Sport build on a B&H Hydro and estimate about a 10% gain. The most obvious pickup occurs in the lower and mid-range of the power band. This is what makes for low lap times. I have also run a Sport 44 on a white FGS Merc500 tower with tuner & thru-hub prop on a 14' Aristo Craft. Gains were obvious on that setup as well. The tollerances are also designed to keep things happy at higher rpms vs. stock. One side benefit is a really mean sounding exhaust note. When I replaced the stock MK58 powerhead on my son's GW Invader with a Sport Port a few years ago, his initial comment was "Daddy that motor sounds angry!"


Chuck
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Oct 14, 2019 5:29 pm

Here is something new. While cleaning up a distributor cap from a 4D-3 mag, the boot for the #4 plug wire fell off. Upon inspection, the spring connector was missing in action! A replacement is shown in the photo. The end of the wire was all there, but torn between the connector hole and the end. Must have become glued to the spark plug...


Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby zul8tr » Mon Oct 14, 2019 8:26 pm

That's where dielectric grease come in handy.  What's your procedure to install those spring clips :?:  Mine is to bend over the wire extension left or right of the spring barrel round then punch in the barb at such a location that when the spring barrel is rotated back opposite the folded wire (keeps wire pressed down) it is very snug when in final position, no left right looseness. Then I coat the wire end that will be hidden under the boot with E6000 black that also glues the spring barrel to the wire end, when cured boot is pushed on the spring with dielectric grease on barrel and wire plus some on the spark plug end. No more stuck springs and great electric seal.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Oct 14, 2019 9:17 pm

I do basically the same but spread the exposed all over the end like a mushroom vs. left & right. 303 Aerospace does a really nice job restoring the old boots if they are not too far gone. With regard to the OEM boots, I prefer the long ones if I can get them(came standard on the 25SS), but the old short versions work fine if they are in decent shape.

Several stand-alone mags have made their way into the shop this month. I am happy to do this work and it can make a heck of difference on an otherwise serviceable powerhead.

Chuck
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Tom Brockmeyer » Mon Oct 14, 2019 11:05 pm

Since your safety wire is not present on the finished mags you built, could you address the reason here?
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Oct 14, 2019 11:20 pm

Hi Tom,

The factory did not have Loctite 271 in 1958. I have never had an issue in competition or service applications. Same could be said for the tab washers on the powerhead, but I like the look. Also - you need the spacer effect on the reed cage bolts. Don't want those to protrude inside the cage passage. Good observation!

In addition, I never liked the oddball OEM screws and tab washers on the mag covers. I use Loctite 242, stainless allen head screws and fiber washers. Need to treat those old covers and distributor caps with care.

Chuck
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Tue Oct 15, 2019 12:56 am

Another thought in the Mag universe. Be really really careful with the main ground terminal assembly. Lot's of fragile Bakelite stuff. I use a tiny Crescent wrench to hold the inside bolt during disassembly to avoid breaking the inner insulation piece. This thing shorts out and you have no spark! I count 9 pieces in total. To keep everything in order, I store the assembly as a unit in my parts drawer. This must have been a source of service issues for Mercury as the configuration and composition of parts changed significantly over the years.

Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby Locomotion » Tue Oct 15, 2019 3:18 pm

That 9 piece wire assembly makes me think of the restorations I did on 40's and 50's Harley Davidson motorcycles, the shear number of total parts made for incredibly time consuming projects. The old three brush generator alone contained 78 parts.
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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Tue Oct 15, 2019 11:58 pm

More progress today.

A word about flywheels. At one end of the spectrum you can choose a super light weight(2 lbs) small diameter racing flywheel. At the opposite extreme lies the heavy service flywheel complete with ring gear and charging magnets. My personal choice for a "gentleman's" sit down runabout with a standard 16" transom(think AristoCraft, Speedliner, Invader, etc..) is an early service flywheel that has not been "cut down". By early I mean the solid cast dog models without charging magnets. Still fairly light, but the additional diameter really improves low speed operation. The ring gear does not add significant weight, but does offer the ability to add electric start if desired.


Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Wed Oct 16, 2019 11:36 pm

Mag building frenzy this week!

Here is a very sparky 4D-3 for this build. I like having the proper tools to set the dwell, but to be honest, after over 100 of these my "initial" setting is usually spot on the line. Note the plate has marks for both the Merc and FMC mags...

Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Thu Oct 17, 2019 10:45 pm

Getting close on this Sport build. Carbs & fuel system done. Need to set up the mag linkage. Note that while final timing will be set once the powerhead is mounted in the lower cowl, the mag drive pulley is preset at TDC and marked.

Chuck

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Re: MK58 Sport Port 44

Postby ctpdsr » Mon Oct 21, 2019 12:45 am

Will call this a powerhead - but not the end of this story!

Stay tuned!

Chuck

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